Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? Part 2

What’s the Downside to Hiring an Inspector?

This is Part 2 of Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? Feel free to offer comments and suggestions.

I just did a quick search of the internet looking for disadvantages for sellers who have used pre-listing inspections and discovered that, in the virtual world at least, there are no downsides to having a pre-listing inspection. I disagree.  The prevailing thought is that you are laying off the risks to the inspector who is carrying Errors and Omissions insurance as protection against lawsuits and judgments.  There are two problems with this perspective: first, that the assumption that the inspector is insured; and, second, that the aggrieved buyer will only name the inspector in any potential litigation.  The truth is that a third or more of the inspectors do not carry insurance.  It is not required in most states and is expensive to hold so many inspectors skip it.  The other issue, involving litigation, is that lawyers tend to name everyone they can in a suit - the inspector, your agent, you -even your dog if the lawyer thinks they have an monetary value.  So, what are the risks...?

The major risk is that the inspector finds a material defect that you were not previously aware of.   Once you know you have a material defect in the property, you will be required to disclose it.  This can substantially impact your sale price even if you repair the defect.  Obviously, if the buyers discover it, it will have the same negative effect.

There is a second risk as well.  Let’s assume that you hired an inspector, he did his inspection and gave you the report.  You look it over and are relieved - there’s not much to be fixed.  You do the light repairs and, when you get and offer, confidently invite the buyer to get his own inspection.  Then you get the inspection report back and the second inspector has found multiple problems with your “clean” home.  What just happened?

Probably one of two things and, unfortunately, only one you can directly control.  The first possibility, the one not fully under your control, is the inspector for the buyer feels he needs to create issues to justify a fee.  The second is that you hired the wrong inspector.  That you can control.

The final installment of this article, Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? will be posted on Monday, September 30, 2013

Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? Part 1

Should  the Seller Hire an Inspector?

That is a good question that unfortunately does not have an easy answer.  If you ask a home inspector, the answer is likely to be an unequivocal “Yes!”  If you ask your Realtor, the answer may be an equally emphatic “No!”

They are both right so let’s look at why.  More importantly, let’s find out which decision is right for you.

Reasons to Get an Inspection

There are three primary reasons that sellers consider getting an inspection.  First, to build a “to-do” list and get the home ready for market.  This type of inspection is usually very effective at identifying issues in the home that you can correct before you list it with an agent.  You won’t normally fix everything on the list but most people anticipate putting at least a modest amount of effort into the repairs.  This allows you to present the home to the buyer in better than average condition plus you have the chance to use the repairs that you have already completed as part of the negotiation process and limit the opportunity for the buyer’s inspector or agent from using over-inflated repair costs to drive the price down.  Also, the repairs that you make will likely make the home show better and encourage more and better offers while

Another advantage - if you hired the right inspector which we’ll discuss shortly - is the opportunity to pick the inspectors’ brain on what is really a necessary repair versus those items that are usually ignored.  Since he is working for you, he is able to provide advice regarding repairs, the costs that might be associated with them and the relative difficulty.   This in turns gives you the chance to prioritize the most important items that must be addressed, the small items that are quick fixes and the ones that you can disclose but not correct.  Remember that no home is perfect, so having some items left on the list is not unusual.

The second reason is to protect yourself legally from disclosure related types of issues.  Every state has its own disclosure forms and requirements that you, as the seller, need to fill out.  Mistakes on these forms can be terribly expensive if a buyer decides to take you to court.  By bringing in the inspector, you have an impartial third party who can provide you with information for your disclosures.  Mind you, not all of it because some of the information is historical - was there ever a flood? may be a question that the inspector can’t answer since the repairs were completed eight years ago and there are no visual clues..  Still, if you release the report as part of your disclosure, you give the appearance of a person who is honest in his presentation of the home and we are trying to build goodwill on the part of the buyer.  They are much more likely to trust a person who is making every effort to be honest.

The disclosure issue can’t be minimized.  It used to be very rare for me to get a call from new homeowners asking about failed inspections and seller disclosures.  The trend is accelerating and I now receive a call every couple of  months from home buyers that want to know if they should sue their inspector, the agent or the sellers.  Some areas of the country are more prone to litigious behavior - California, Florida, Arizona - but even in the deeply rural area that I live in, the change is noticeable.

The third reason that you’ll often hear for doing an inspection prior to listing is to try to discourage the buyer from having a home inspection.  Many inspectors advertise that a pre-listing inspection may encourage the buyer to forgo their own inspection.  While this does happen, I don’t suggest it and, even when I’ve done the inspection for the seller, I always recommend that the buyer have their own inspection done. Why?  Because you never want a perceived conflict of interest on your part or the inspectors.  Remember, we are trying to build trust throughout the process and limiting the choices of the buyer or even trying to influence them to self-limit can work to build doubt.  It is, however, a successful strategy and I estimate that half or more of the homes I pre-inspect do not get inspected by a buyers inspector.

Should the Seller Hire an Inspector, Part 2 will be posted Friday morning, early....

Smart Moves by Sellers, Pt. 2

Smart moves by sellers, part two....

The temperatures have dropped precipitously in the last week or so, down about 25 degrees and, if the trend continues, next week I won't be running air conditioners.

One seller is already in front of the curve. I showed up and the receipts for the air conditioner service and furnace service were sitting on the table. My client joked that the seller had made it easy for me since I didn't have to check them now.

He was wrong about that - I have to check anyway since it is part of the Standards of Practice for Washington State. And, occasionally, I'll find something that the service technician missed. Hard to believe, but they are human and subject to the same foibles as the rest of us.

But the comment struck me as really interesting. The proof of service was very reassuring to the buyer and helped her feel much more comfortable with the mechanical systems. When I tested them and looked for problems, I couldn't find any which just built on the sense of security that she had.

So, we're reaching the time of year where everybody tells you to service the furnace to get ready for winter. I'm going to borrow some smart moves by sellers and suggest that you should service it to help make your potential buyer more comfortable with the home, especially if the furnace is an older one. Proof of your good intentions combined with the assurance that a professional or two have signed off on the equipment can be a powerful inducement to action.

Smart moves by Sellers is an on-going series of articles that will hopefully help you make your home more salable. if you have specific questions you would like me to answer, please email me or leave a comment.

Ufer Ground for New Construction

The term ufer ground is the old fashioned way to call out what the code book calls a concrete-encased grounding electrode. You probably don't know it but most new homes in the Pullman and Moscow areas are being built with a Ufer ground. First, let's have a short history lesson. In World War II, the American forces, specifically the U.S. Army, needed a system to ground bomb storage facilities in Arizona and Nevada. One problem with both of those areas is that they are extremely dry and the soil was a very poor conductor. For obvious reasons, the Army did not want excessive charges to build up around the bomb dumps. The existing means - long copper rods - would take a critical war material our of circulation and was very expensive.

Fixing this problem was Herbert G. Ufer. A sharp individual, he discovered that the foundations, made of concrete, were more conductive than many types of soil. He devised a system by which a rod was inserted into the foundation and tied to the electrical panel.

Moving on....

The concrete encased grounding electrode used in our region for residential construction is a 20 foot length of #4 rebar (1/2 inch steel) with a projection from the top of the foundation wall at a easy location to make the connection to the grounding electrode - the actual wire from the panel.

The old means - there were two - of grounding proved to be less effective in Pullman and Moscow due to better knowledge and a change in building material.

The early means of grounding was to attach the grounding electrode to the metal plumbing system where the main entered the home. Now that we use non-metallic materials for our plumbing supplies, this option isn't available.

The other way was to use driven ground rods. Unfortunately, these were less proficient at distributing energy and were often damaged at the clamps that held the wire to the rod.

How to determine if you have a Ufer Ground? Look inside the home under the electrical panel. What you are trying to find is a blank electrical box cover plate. If you have one and can not find a ground rod outside, there is a good chance that you have a ufer ground. The plate is there, by the way, in case you do have a major electrical event and the connection to the rod needs to be checked for damage.

Now a word of warning - nothing ever comes without a downside. Ufer grounds have been known, under certain conditions, to cause damage to the foundation in a lightning strike. If the concrete holds too much moisture, that water will flash off to steam and the expansion of the steam cracks the concrete.

Make sure that you keep your gutters in good shape and, when you water the lawn, make sure you're not watering the house, too. It's not good for the house and it can be a problem - not a high probability one, admittedly, but possible - for your ufer ground system.

Floor Plans - A New Inspection Service

Within the next couple of weeks, I'll be adding a new service for my clients - floor plans, which I'm reasonably sure is a brand new inspection service since I can't find anybody else offering it. These floor plans will be generally accurate and will include placement of major items like the windows, doors and heat ducts. By generally accurate, I mean that the dimensions of the room will be close, probably within an inch or so but not precise to the degree that would be available from a construction blueprint. If major remodeling is the intent, the floor plans can give the client a staring point but it won't include the structural components or precision that will be necessary to remove walls, lift ceilings, or otherwise radically alter the home.

The idea is to provide clients, especially those from out-of-state, with a way of determining how they plan on living in the home - where the furniture can go, which rooms will be the best for the baby, which one can be an office.

I haven't yet figured out the cost factor for the service (I know, I know, that should be first but....) but, off the top of my head with a time estimate, I think it will be around $75.00.

For Realtors, it provides a means of differentiating your sellers' homes and can be included in the marketing plan.

Once I flesh the idea of floor plans out a bit more, I'll add to the services page.

Water Resistive Barrier

I always joke that having a boring day is good for a home inspector and thought that I had it made on a new home - until I got in an attic and saw that there was no water resistive barrier and new siding. I could literally see the neighbor's house from a crack between siding pieces. Not good. In the bad old days before 2003, the IRC (International Residential Code) did not specify water resistive barriers for homes, leaving the details to the siding manufacturers. Some manufacturers required them while others were willing to certify their exterior wall coverings as primary water barriers. The differing standards led to different installation procedures, mass confusion and a slew of houses vulnerable to water intrusion.

So the codes changed.

Which brings me to a new home and no barrier. It should be there. It's in the code. It's also in the installation manual:

A properly installed breathable water-resistive barrier is required behind the siding.

Seems pretty cut and dried but I know that my clients will end in a battle - because this is not an easy fix. Correction will mean removing the siding (they're supposed to close this week!) The builder will likely make two arguments - the first, that he is adhering to the standards of practice for the region. Therefore, the buyers should not expect any better. This one he might win - others have, claiming essentially the same thing. "Yeah, it's wrong but everybody does it."

The second argument will come from a misinterpretation of the siding installation instructions. The manufacturer allows the siding to be nail directly to wall studs provided they are 24" on center or less - which is the case in this home.. It doesn't mention the water resistive barrier expressly so I expect him to claim it isn't necessary. It's a pretty bogus argument, but the builder is in a bind.

This happened on new home construction but I can see a potential for problems on remodels as well. When upgrading the exterior, you need the water resistive barrier. They work together. Some companies will try to cut costs - and the barrier can be a bit expensive - and, unless conditions are perfect, there is no way for the average home inspector to know. Yesterday I had the conditions and made a good catch that will save my clients a ton of aggravation a few rainy seasons from now.

Video Sewer Scope and Old Pipes

If you have an older house, getting the someone to do a video sewer scope inspection can possibly save you thousands. The issue that I run into on a home inspection is that I do a visual non-invasive inspection (mostly) and the sewer line is buried under ground making it outside the scope of what I do.

Based on the age of the home, I can make some educated guesses on what material - ABS, cast iron, concrete, Orangeburg - you may have connecting your home to the city sewer or to the septic tank. What I have no way of telling you is what condition those pipes may be in.

When I have some concerns, I recommend you to a professional who has the equipment - a sewer scope which is  a camera on a long flexible lead that gets pushed down the sewer line, sending back images to a video recording system.

Ideally, this operator will send the probe to the connection with the main sewer line or septic tank and report back what the material is and that it is in good condition. Unfortunately, as plumbing pipes reach the end of life period - and this is occurring more often with the post-WWII homes approaching 70 years old - we're seeing more failures.

The failures tend to aggregate into two categories. The first, material related, is simple degradation of the pipe. Orangeburg pipe - basically a toilet paper roll impregnated with tar - simply falls apart. Cast iron has rust issues.

The second category deals with time and the effects on the conditions around the pipe. One example is a failure of compaction in the soil that causes the pipe to shift or even break. This can be a problem with modern drainage piping - the lines often will develop sags that restrict flow. Another one, a particular problem in older neighborhoods are the wonderful mature trees.

I had a beautiful jacaranda tree in my front yard when I lived in Southern California. One of the reasons it was so spectacular was that it had a steady source of nutrients - my sewer. Trees are opportunistic and this one found all the joints in the clay piping and invaded at the seams where each hub piece was joined.

I bought that house before video sewer scope technology matured so I didn't get the advanced warming - the total tab was nearly $5,000 in repairs. Now that the technology is here, I recommend it to clients with older homes.

The actual wording that I use is " It is not unusual for older homes to begin to have problems with the waste drainage system.  These systems are not readily visible but can be imaged using a video sewer scope system.   Recommend having a video camera line inspection for potential blockages in the main sewer line."

It's up tot he client to make the call obviously - but it awfully cheap peace of mind.

Get Rid of That 'Rotten Egg Smell'

 That rotten egg smell you get every time you turn on the hot water? You can get rid of it.

Both Pullman and Moscow have neighborhoods that have a lot of bacteria in the water supplies. That doesn't mean that it is always a health hazard - often it just really annoying. We have iron and sulfur bacteria in our area, courtesy of the aquifers that we have. Neither type of bacteria is particularly harmful, at least not at the levels usually seen. 

Here are some valuable tips on how to avoid or treat sulfur bacteria infestations.

Sulfur-reducing bacteria live in oxygen-deficient environments. They break down sulfur compounds, producing hydrogen sulfide gas in the process. Hydrogen sulfide gas is what gives the water that rotten egg smell. It's also highly corrosive. The sulfur smell may only be noticeable when the water hasn't been run for several hours which is why is seems to happen in vacant houses more often than occupied listings.

Why is it only in the hot water?

Actually, it isn't - it's in the cold water, too. The water heater  provides a good environment for Sulfur-reducing bacteria because it contains a "sacrificial anode." This anode is a magnesium rod that helps protect the water heater by corroding instead of the tank lining. SRBs are nourished by electrons released from the anode as it corrodes.

Water heaters infested with Sulfur-reducing bacteria can be treated.

The bacteria dies at temperatures of 140 degrees Fahrenheit or above, which is roughly equivalent to the high setting on most home water heaters that are in good working order. Setting the water heater on "high" will raise the water temperature to approximately 160 degrees Fahrenheit and kill any SRBs in the tank.

(This should only be done if the water tank has a pressure relief valve, and everyone in the house should be warned to prevent scaldings.) After about eight hours, the tank can be drained and the temperature setting returned to normal.

Raising the water heater temperature will solve the odor problem, but it may be temporary depending on the condition of the house plumbing supplies.

Removing the sacrificial anode will eliminate the problem, but it can also shorten the water heater lifespan significantly and likely will void the warranty. Replacing the magnesium rod with one made of zinc won't totally eliminate SRBs, but it will greatly reduce their numbers. Consult with a plumber before attempting to modify your water heater.

I'm selling my house - Should I fix this?

If you have your home listed for sale, I can absolutely guarantee you that this will improve the way your home appears to prospective buyers. I've had more clients than I can count wrinkle their noses at the rotten egg smell coming from the kitchen or bathroom when I am testing the functional flows. It doesn't help you sell your house.

Clean air and water evoke powerful, positive feelings. I strongly recommend that you fix that rotten egg smell.

Copyright © 2013 Paul Duffau

Traverse the Roof

One part of the Standards of Practice for Washington State that drew a ton of comments - much of it angry - was the requirement to traverse the roof during the inspection. There are excellent reasons to actually get on the roof. The most important is that a large number of issues simply can't be observed from ground level. In the picture to the right, I've lifted a flap on the three-tab asphalt composition roof.

First, I shouldn't be able to lift that tab with fingertips. That I can indicates that the tar strip - the black rubbery stuff you see on the shingle under the flap - deteriorated and isn't performing its function sealing the shingles together. Not unusual on an older roof and typically will generate a warning from me that the roof is aging and plans for future replacement should be considered.

The second item that was noticeable was the use of staples to attach the shingles to the roof. This was permissible for many years but went out of code somewhere around 1998-2000. I was still a foundation guy at that point so I don't know precisely when the change took place. Staples fail more easily than nails do which explains why we changed.

They are also harder to correctly install. If you look to the staple on the right (under my hand), you'll note that the installer put it in on an angle. That's a no-no.

None of this would have been visible from the ground.

Opponents of the requirement to traverse the roof had a good point - it can be very dangerous which is why my clients are not permitted to join me up there. The Home Inspector Licensing Board considered this and reached a sensible compromise. If the inspector feels that the roof is unsafe to traverse, he or she is not required to.

They didn't set specific conditions regarding the pitch of the roof or the weather or the health of the inspector (not joking - if Inspector Bob took an anti-histamine before going to work, he has no business up there.) They left it up to our discretion.

The one problem that presents is when a client becomes adamant that you traverse the roof. I had one who was exactly that determined for me to get on the roof. Pointing out that the wind gusts exceeded 70 mph and that to get on the upper level required balancing my ladder on a slope roof at the veranda only made him more determined. I finally offered his money back when he accused me of failing to deliver the promised services. He was shocked and backed down but it reinforced in my mind the most important part of roof safety.

I'm the one who gets to decide it I can traverse the roof. Not the client and not the agent. And I'll make a good faith effort to do it. But there isn't a roof in the world worth failing off of.

Burned Wires in the Panel

The burned wires in this electrical panel aren't the result of a defect in the panel, the breakers or even  the wiring.  I damaged the wiring by the simple act of removing a screw (and, no, I'm not responsible - that cover should be safe to remove. The listing agent and I had this discussion and the electrician backed me up.) Sparks flew everywhere as the screw came out and the panel sizzled in front of me. Fortunately, I wasn't hanging onto the panel cover or it would likely have knocked me across the room. Hidden defects exist in nearly every home. While the home inspector tries to find as many of them as possible, the term 'hidden defect' persists for a reason. None of us have x-ray vision so items stashed in the walls stays stashed. Even my infrared camera isn't going to help with many of these issues.

The defect in this case was the original installation of the wiring. By code, those wires should never be placed in a position where this could possibly happen. When I see wiring too close to attachment points, it gets written up for correction.

And, when I'm taking the panel cover off, my clients aren't allowed to help. The flash range on a 200 AMP panel is about three feet (so I've been told - I have no desire to test that particular factoid!) I appreciate the offer but even the slight risk that something like this can happen - this is the first time in  eight years for me - isn't worth it.

I joke when I see burned wires in the panel that someone had a bad day. You pay us to do this as safely as possible and we are, most of us, very careful but the rare nasty surprise can still be waiting. If it has to happen - let it happen to the inspector.

Attending the Home Inspection

This article was published by the State of Washington in their semi-annual newsletter to Real Estate Licensees. I was very pleased that my work met their standards. Next I hope to get a paying gig.... During the public comment portion of a recent board meeting for the Home Inspector Licensing Advisory Board, the inspector asked for clarification regarding the process of real estate agents attending the home inspection. While it spurred considerable discussion, the issue was outside the scope of the Board’s purview. “Why don't you go get a cup of coffee or something while my client and I concentrate on this inspection?” is what one home inspector said to a Licensee recently during an inspection. The agent balked and stated "I'll be fined!" Here is the story from the inspector. Within minutes of beginning the inspection the agent involved had begun asking the inspector leading questions. The inspector recognized that the real estate Licensee was attempting to exercise damage control. In this case, the issue really was a big deal - it needed to be attended to as soon as possible and it was important that the buyer understand it fully. The liability for everyone was substantial. Every Licensee is familiar with the process of the inspection. The Department of Licensing now has regulations on how to conduct the referrals including requirements for a written policy for each office and disclosure requirements for both the inspector and the agent. These are regulatory and legal requirements and need to be differentiated from the obligations that are placed on us by associations and clients. What we do not have are rules for the interaction at the inspection. That was the situation here where the regulatory requirements differ from the association rules. The inspector pointed out the inspection time is his time with the client to provide that client with the best available information. To protect everyone involved, the home inspector suggested the Licensee leave. The client fortunately was oblivious to the real messages being exchanged. Imagine the reaction of the client if the inspector said to the Licensee, "Why would you try to convince me to minimize a serious and expensive issue when it has the potential to bankrupt my client; and, if not fixed, make this house unsellable five years from now?" As home inspectors our primary obligation is to ensure that our client is as fully informed as possible. This means focusing on the concerns and questions that the client has; an agent asking questions at this juncture can interrupt the process and actually increase buyer anxiety. Given that strong-willed personalities populate our professions on both sides of the equation, let’s focus on how to avoid the potential for confrontation rather than assign fault. Could the inspector have been more tactful? Probably. Could the Licensee been less intrusive? Probably. But focusing on the confrontation does not move the industry forward. Instead, we should look at the facts on attendance requirements and information sharing. Then, we can look for common ground that will make the process more successful for all parties.

There is no legal requirement to attending the home inspection. That doesn’t let you off the hook though; your local MLS and Realtor Associations may have bylaws that will direct your actions on attendance. The Northwest MLS, for example in Rule 50(a) states, “no key holder shall leave any other person who is not also a key holder unattended at a listed property without the seller’s permission.” This, by definition, includes the home inspector and the mutual client. On the eastern side of Washington, the Associations are either indifferent (Lewis-Clark Association) – or actively discourage attendance (Whitman County Association.)

At the heart of the Northwest MLS position is the legal liability if property is damaged or missing after the inspection, not a matter of a lack of trust. The western side of the State is more litigious than rural Eastern Washington and the Multiple Listing Services and Associations have responded to that to protect their members. The purpose of the MLS rule is to actively protect the property of the seller by maintaining control of the property and monitoring the activities of those who are present – the buyer and the inspector. It is quite normal and reasonable for a buyer or the inspector to open and look into closets. It would be a rather different event if one or the other were trying on jackets or looking in jewelry boxes and the Northwest MLS recognizes this.

In Eastern Washington, there is a greater concern with unduly influencing the inspection. The region is less litigious than Western Washington and the incidences of broken or missing items very rare. A greater perceived risk for the real estate agent is the liability incurred by attending the home inspection. For example, an agent attending the inspection who tells the buyer that an item “isn’t a big deal” has injected themselves into the process and placed themselves in substantial jeopardy. Worse, the agent may find herself held responsible even if they say nothing; failing to point out a defect, even if the inspector missed it, may be enough for the agent to be held legally liable.

In each case, the MLS and local processes have taken into account the source of greatest liability to the members. But what of the inspectors….

The Inspector has legal and ethical rules he must follow. Under Washington regulations (WAC 308-408C-020(10), the inspector is not allowed to disclose the results of the inspection to any person other than the client. By that standard, the home inspector cannot and should not discuss the report in front of either the seller’s or buyer’s representative. Most inspectors have an automatic means built into their Inspection Agreements to gain this permission so that they can transmit the report to the agent representing the buyer. I am unaware of any inspector who routinely collects approval for transmission of information to the opposite party in the transaction.

Without the approval of the client, the inspector is required to exercise reasonable care in presenting the information without compromising the privacy of the client. Indeed, in a small percentage of cases, usually involving a dual agency by the real estate agent, the client will specifically withhold permission to share the findings of the report. In those cases, we cannot ethically discuss the findings while the buyer’s representative is present any more than we could if the home owner elects to be present.

So, clearly, while attendance is mandatory in some areas due to MLS Rules, it does not carry the force of law. The effect on the agent is unchanged as they can still be fined. What we need are an operative set of rules that both inspectors and agents can agree upon to work in a cooperative manner rather than treating each encounter as an adversarial adventure.

1. Mutual Respect. Too often, the real estate agent and inspector behave in a manner that does a disservice to their common client and to their industries. Instead, each should recognize the limits of their expertise and act within those bounds while respecting the obligations that are placed on the other person legally, ethically and morally.

Inspectors need to accept that the agent will be present. The inspector needs to communicate clearly his expectations to perform the task he was hired for without interference. The mere presence of an agent does not constitute interference. The agent is there to maintain the security of the property. Unless the inspector wishes to assume that responsibility, he should be supportive of the agent. Also, the buyer’s representative can directly get the information from the inspector at the appropriate time and with the permission of the client to best serve the needs of the client. This can serve to limit miscommunication by getting the information directly from you rather than relying on their interpretation of the report or the second-hand impressions of the buyer.

If the agent is the seller’s representative, understand that the communication with the buyer is confidential. The inspector is not being deliberately rude in avoiding you or asking you for privacy with his client but performing within his scope of responsibilities to his client.

2. Let the Inspector work. Every successful inspector has developed an individual system of performing the inspection and communicating the results. Both clients – buyer and seller - have expectations that the inspection will provide unbiased information. By systematizing his process, the inspector increases his accuracy for your clients while minimizing wasted time.

Additional people at the inspection add distractions and increase the likelihood that items important to your client will be missed or miscommunicated. Every inspector has a story of the first-time homebuyer who has both sets of parents, siblings, children, the aunts, uncles, first and second cousins show up for the inspection. This invariably makes the job of the inspector far more challenging and substantially changes both the flow and the quality of information that your client is receiving. As an attending agent, you can help by directing these flows and letting the inspector do his job.

Also, as an agent, you may have been through hundreds of inspections through the years. Resist the urge to provide your own commentary. The inspector is a licensed professional who adds to his knowledge base through annual continuing education. A comment such as “I’ve never seen an inspector say that is a problem…” places you in a position of liability and may not reflect the progress of the inspection industry. Let the inspector take that risk.

3. Attending the Inspection – or just Present? If you are required to be at the inspection, understand that this is a different requirement than attending the inspection. To quote Oliver E Frascona from an article in REALTOR® Magazine,

“Don't go through the house with the inspector. Explain to your clients that you sell real estate and the inspector inspects it.”

This is a time that you can catch up on emails, phone calls and other small tasks that do not require full office. One agent of my acquaintance reads or chats with the client. Her primary focus is to be ready to assist the client when needed and to be the buyers advocate if there is a claim of missing or damaged property. She coaches the client to let the inspector do his job and then proceeds to model that behavior.

When there are findings, she respects the client and trusts the expertise of the inspector. This licensee will ask clarifying questions to ensure that she understands the scope of the issue and the precise location. She finds that this greatly enhances her ability to communicate with all the parties involved.

4. Negotiations. It is a very different question when the buyer asks “Should I get this fixed?” versus “Should I have the seller fix this?” Inspectors need to be aware when they are crossing the line from inspector to agent. The agent is the person who has the expertise to handle the negotiations. Just as an inspector will grumble if an agent minimizes a reportable item in the report, the agent has every right to be unhappy if the inspector crosses the line from impartial observer to advocate. Inspectors need to resist the urge to leave their sandbox. Let the agents do their job representing the client.

The ultimate goal of each of us is to have clients successfully navigate the home buying/home selling process. For that to happen, real estate agents and inspectors need to act cooperatively in the best interests of our clients.

5 Tips for Finding a Handyman

Finding a handyman - a good one - is like panning for gold in the Atlantic ocean.  Finding a handyman that doesn't charge an arm, leg is even more challenging. Most people think of the handyman as the jack-of-all-trades.   Some handymen think that as well.  No single person can know it all and the handyman that tells you he can do it all is giving you a big neon warning sign - "BEWARE!"  It might be more accurate to say that a handyman is the man - or woman! - who can do the job you need done.

The modern handyman doesn't look like a guy named Daryl (with another brother Daryl).  They are a variety of shapes and sizes, both genders, all colors, with a variety of skills.  The professional full-timer will have a larger range of skills and charge accordingly.  Part-timers are usually more narrow in their skills but cheaper.  Either might be able to help you depending on your project.  The real trick is to make sure that you don't push the handyman past his comfort zone.

Onto the 5 tips for finding a handyman...   Tip 1  on Finding a Handyman

Have a clear idea of what you want.  If you don't know how you want the project to turn out, your handyman isn't going to know.  He might be able to give you some ideas but ultimately you need to be in charge.  Make a list of all the projects you want done whether it's cleaning the gutters or building a cabinet.  Talk it over with them and make sure that they can handle the types of work and the total work load. Talk with them, discuss their experience and favorite projects.  Get a feel for what they can accomplish.

Tip 2  on Finding a Handyman

Make sure that the person you want to hire is on the up-and-up.  Any legitimate handyman will be carrying insurance to protect himself and you. He should also have the proper business licenses.  You'll want to talk to more than one handyman  - three is usually enough to get an idea of the costs and scope of the services that they can offer you.

Tip 3  on Finding a Handyman

Check their references.  Handymen live and die by reputation so don't be afraid to ask them for references - and don't be afraid to follow up on them.  You need to know who it is that you are inviting into your home.

Tip 4  on Finding a Handyman

You need a contract.  It's a nice thought to be able to get work done on a handshake and a nod but in our modern world, you need a contract.  The contract should define what the handyman is going to do, for how much, how he's planning on charging you (flat fee, hourly, etc.) and when payment is due.  If he offers a guarantee on his work, get it in writing.  It's a "Trust but verify" world out there.

Tip 5  on Finding a Handyman

Avoid the handyman that calls you up and offers any sort of special deal, sale, or "we're in the neighborhood" work.  Unfortunately, there are a lot of scam artists that are very slick at separating people from their hard earned money.  Be leery of deals that are too good to be true.  If you followed the steps above, you should be able to avoid these guys.  My first instinct if I'm getting unsolicited offers is to assume that someone wants to take advantage.  Be comfortable enough with your intuition to "just say no."

Inspecting Sidewalks

Okay, I admit it - I tried to find a duller topic than inspecting sidewalks.  It might not exist.  Insulation - close but vermiculite might have asbestos and asbestos causes cancer which is definitely worth a look-see.  Paint - maybe but at least it's colorful plus you can get it in a semi-gloss even for the exterior.  Mrs. Duffau suggested floors but that immediately brought to mind Italian tile which lead me to regular tile, hardwoods then to carpets and, ultimately to a collection of shag carpets we saw once when house shopping; deep piles of shag in every room, neon lime green in one room, neon purple in another, neon hot pink shag in the master bathroom.  We bought a different house. So we're stuck with sidewalks.  Personally, I like them.  They go places and I always seem to have a need to get somewhere.  I get the same feeling when I watch planes overhead.  Where's it going?  Planes, however seem to involve expensive things like tickets and the TSA.  Advantage, sidewalks.

When I look at sidewalks, the first thing to remember is that someone needs to be able to use them.  How they need (or want) to use them will vary.  I did not realize that a lady that I know had aged until I walked on the grass as she walked on the narrow walkway.  There wasn't room for both of us and I am, at least for now, more stable than she.  When she reached the steps she slowed, took each one deliberately. There were no handrails. She could have used them.

So size does matter.  The usual recommendation is a 36 inch wide sidewalk.  That will accommodate a stroller, a walker, a wheelchair.  Except that isn't wide enough.  All of us have seen those older couples, married for sixty years and still in love with each other.  If she is using a walker, where is he?  That's right, right next to her, a guiding hand on her elbow.  They won't both fit 36 inches of walkway.  So, when planning for senior living spaces, we should be making the walkways wider, much wider.

And they should be flat.  Seems evident but not a week goes by without me writing up a trip hazard on a sidewalk.  It doesn't take much cracking and settling to cause trouble.  A lip of 1/2 an inch has put me on my head.  Tree roots and frost heaves will do damage but the main culprit is good old-fashioned poor workmanship.  Add in weeds growing in the cracks and a flat smooth surface is not a guarantee.

Lighting is another area that we should check.  I like solar lighting for the backyard but that was for our old dog who was getting scared of the dark.  His eyesight dimmed and he worried about getting separated from the pack in the dark when the wild things were out.  I would have put them along the front too but we have streetlights and they cast enough light for now.  Later, I can add more solar or, if I have the money, put in permanent lighting running off a house circuit.

And finally, what should we build the sidewalks with?  Concrete is the old standby though with the development of stamped and colored concrete our options have grown from the standard hard grey stuff we grew up skinning our knees on.  Brick is always nicer but not as smooth and sometimes slick with growth.  Pavers are just precast concrete is thin pieces but we can make decorative shapes and styles with them to show off the sidewalks.  Wood chips?  Comfortable to walk when you still have the balance but not very practical for walkers, strollers or wheelchairs.  Young kids love them.  Wood planks?  Wood rot and slippery when wet. Each material has it's own unique advantages and disadvantages. Flagstones are pretty but treacherous because they are so uneven.

It also isn't set in stone that the sidewalk must be straight.  A curve, a gentle radius is not only attractive but can actually make the walk safer to transit.  In that same vein, the surface really does need to be non-skid.

Planning a new sidewalk or planning to adapt a sidewalk involves taking all these characteristics into account.  Inspecting them does to with the added need to understand who's walking the walk.

Preparing for Winter

Preparing for winter when you're a senior or approaching that time of your life entails a bit more planning than when we were 22 and invincible.  Winter isn't yet snarling and slashing the windows with sleet but it's lurking close by. It's 40 degrees outside this morning and 32 up in Pullman and Moscow.  It won't be long.... A couple of thoughts on winter preparation for those of us not invincible.

Servicing the Furnace

It time.  You should be servicing the furnace at the beginning of every winter before the worst of the weather gets here.  If I've learned anything in a half century, it is that Murphy's Law is the true controlling force of the universe.

If you don't get it serviced and it fails, it will do it at the worst possible time - the day before Thanksgiving or Christmas or during a blizzard.  So, call up your heating company, have them tune it up for the winter and swap the filters so you have a clean one headed into the closed house season.

Arrange for Snow Removal

If you are no longer able to shovel your own sidewalks and steps, get help.  Set it up ahead of time so that when it snows, you're not calling the same person that 47 other people are calling.  Somebody isn't going to get helped if they wait.  Don't let it be you.  Preparing for winter means not waiting until the last second.

By the way, this doesn't have to be a paid service.  I shovel the walkway for Darlene, my neighbor two houses down, every year.  We don't get much snow and I am still pretty fit so it's a task that doesn't overwhelm me.  Talk to your neighbors and your church - see if they would be willing to lend a hand.

Stock Up on Supplies

Earlier this year, large parts of India suffered huge power outages.  The Indians were used to having power outages and were prepared.  We're not nearly so use to outages but we can expect far more of them than in the past.  When the outages hit the East Coast this summer, they were devastating.

Our power transmission system was built in the fifties and sixties.  It's getting old in many places and we haven't done some of the upgrading that would "harden" the power grid and protect it.  It's vulnerable to everything from winter weather to solar flares.  Add to that, we are losing a huge amount of power generation due to EPA regulations and we can expect more outages.

Have extra food on hand that doesn't need to be cooked.  Have a second source of heat in your home.  If you are relying exclusively on electricity, you have the potential to be left shivering in the cold.  As always, you should have extra batteries, working flashlights, a safe supply of all your medications (enough to last at least a week). Preparing for winter means preparing for the unexpected.

Check In

Have a time and day set up to check in with friends or family especially if you are living alone.  If you need to, set up with a service that will check in with you.  Let people know that you are okay.  It won't just potentially save you in an emergency - it will give your loved ones a small measure of peace of mind.  It's hard to admit that we may need a bit of looking after but we all do, to one degree or another.

Do the little things now to make this winter easier to manage.  It wouldn't hurt to hope for an early spring....